Tour The Belfast Peace Walls – The Black Cab Tour

The Belfast Peace Walls, known as The Belfast Peace Lines, separate catholic and protestant communities in Northern Islands Belfast. The purpose of the walls was to curb the violence steamed from the outbreak of civil unrest during the riots of 1969. The riots led to a thirty-year conflict known as the Troubles and reflect the civil rights campaign to end discrimination against Catholics and Irish nationalists.

Touring The Peace Walls is a stark reminder of Belfast’s violent struggles, the loss of life, and a reminder that the communities are still divided.

Anyone that visits Belfast should consider the journey through history to learn about one of the most devastating religiously fueled wars that are often under-reported globally and seldom taught in history classes aside from England and Ireland.

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Belfast Irelands’ History

Belfast Ireland, or is it Belfast England? A debate stems from the English King Henry VIII’s takeover of Ireland in 1541. Fast forward to modern-day times. The 1919-21 Anglo-Irish War led to the Irish Free State Constitution Act 1922. The Free State Act essentially allowed Northern Ireland to “opt” out and remain a part of England.

Ultimately, Northern Ireland chose to remain part of England, with many Protestants ruling the land. The English, all Protestant, the Irish Catholics, led to racism, discrimination, and point-blank outing of the minority Catholics from their native homeland. No matter what you read on the topic, this is a fact. Catholics were and still are discriminated against in Northern Ireland, although the Protestants are no longer the majority, and times are changing.

The aftermath of the Irish Free State Constitution Act 1922 led to The Troubles of Belfast. The constitutional status of Northern Ireland continues to be a pain point for all Unionists and Nationalists.

Loyalist or Unionist means supporter of Britain, Nationalist means a supporter of an Independent Ireland.

Belfast, Ireland’s Troubles

I am always stunned that many people do not know what occurred in Ireland from 1960 onwards. Or that most people do not know about the Northern Ireland conflict or what ultimately fueled it.

The Troubles are a standard part of the English school curriculum. Not just history; it was current news in England at the time. The IRA set off many bombs on England’s mainland.  The bombings were always on the news and typically presented from a Loyalist perspective. Don’t get me wrong; I don’t condone the violence on either side. I’m merely stating that this is not a one-sided story by any means.

Interestingly, years later, bombing and fighting are not the norms, and the British Army is long gone. The communities in the inner city still have walls that are designed to segregate communities. Houses still have metal cages that protect them from the potential of homemade petrol bombs.

To even begin to comprehend this, you need to see it with your own eyes.

Books You Should Read About The Belfast Troubles

If you plan to visit Belfast and want to understand the plight before you arrive, here are some books that you should consider:

Books About The Troubles

The Black Cab Tour of Belfast, Ireland

When we did this tour, it was 100% underground. I had to find a cabby that specialized in touring the estates. Today, you can book a similar tour via any online operator.

I can’t begin to describe how exciting it was to arrange this tour with just emails and phone numbers! Of course, it was ridiculously dramatic once we made it to Belfast because none of our phones worked. Finding a payphone was like looking for a needle in a haystack, and we begged a hotel to let us use their phone. Once we contacted our tour guide, we were all set. Off we went in a traditional black cab.

How long is the Belfast black cab tour?

Tours typically take two hours; however, you can book a more extended time.

What can be seen on the Belfast black cab tour?

You will see the murals of Falls Road, the Peace Wall, Shankill Road, and Crumlin Road Gaol, and there’s an optional drive past the Titanic Belfast too.

Are black taxis running in Belfast?

Yes, there are several tour operators, and they all run all year long.

Bombay Street

On August 15th, 1969, Bombay Street was burned to the ground by a Loyalist mob. This street is an unmarked dividing line between the Nationalist Clonard Area and the Loyalist Shankill Area.

If your heart is beating, seeing the walls and metal racks that protect houses will impact you. It’s a sad sight that will move you. Regardless of any political or religious affiliation, you can feel and smell the travesties that have taken place here.

The Peace Walls

There are at least 97 of them throughout Belfast, separating suburbs. Initially intended to be temporary, they still stand covered in fantastic artwork. The most famous and longest one is the one that surrounds Bombay Street – the area around Falls Road and  Shankill Road. Some peace walls have gates, and four of them are actively closed at 6 pm every night for safety.  I will never forget seeing this. The war ended over 20 years ago, and yet communities are still enclosed behind these peace walls. One other point worth mentioning. By most accounts, the locals do not support removing the barriers.

Here is an example of a gate that gets closed nightly:

Notice the double stacking and height of the wall. During the Troubles, the walls grew in stature, with additions being added on top of the existing structures:

Loyalist Murals

This mural is of King William. Still Celebrated in Belfast. On July 12th, there is the Orange Parade, followed by bonfires. It’s a highly controversial event.  It celebrates the victory of Protestant King William of Orange over Catholic King James II at the Battle of the Boyne (1690).

Nationalist Murals

Bobby Sands

Hopefully, this man requires no introduction. Bobby Sands was a Nationalist who joined the IRA. He’s famous for his role in the 1981 Irish hunger strikes.  Sands died on May 5th, 1981, after 66 days on a hunger strike, aged 27. A hero to all Nationalists.

Here is Bobby Sands Mural:

Getting To Belfast Ireland

You can fly directly into Belfast on many airlines from Europe. Most Americans aren’t flying directly to Belfast. I live in Orlando, and there aren’t any direct flights. Given this, I would still fly to Dublin and then drive up. It’s more popular and cheaper to fly to Dublin, Shannon, or Limerick and see Southern Ireland. And most people don’t have Northern Ireland on their list of things to see.

So how do you make it to Northern Ireland if you have flown to Southern Ireland? You drive! Now, let me be candid here. The north and south are two different countries; one is Irish, and one is English. Car rentals in Southern Ireland have specific clauses that state that you can not take the car to Northern Ireland. Ignore this and proceed on. The GPS will crap out once you hit the border. Don’t panic; you will be fine; use google maps.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are there still peace walls in Belfast?

Yes, at least east 40 of them throughout Belfast, separating suburbs. In West Belfast, the most prominent of the peace walls can be found between The Falls Road and The Shankill Road. Additionally, there are peace walls in North Belfast, East Belfast, Portadown, and Derry.

Why are there murals on the walls of houses in Belfast?

The most famous ones are The Falls Road and Shankill Road. However, you will see them all over suburbs throughout Belfast and the inner city.

How many peace walls are there in Belfast?

There are 97 peace lines and related structures like gates and closed roads.

Where are the Catholic areas in Belfast?

West Belfast, the Falls Rd area, would have the heaviest concentration of Catholics. There are many other areas, but these are most well known.

Are there no-go areas in Belfast?

Belfast’s main areas to avoid at night are the Shankill and Falls roads (West Belfast), Tiger’s Bay, New Lodge, and Ardoyne (in North Belfast), as well as Short Strand in East Belfast. However, they are completely safe during the day.

What You Need to Know

• Traveling to Belfast is 100% safe – don’t get lured in by the hype.
• All people of Belfast are delightful agnostic to religious or political beliefs.
• Driving across the border is a breeze, with no border control.
• Belfast today is part of England. This means different laws, different customs, etc.
• Given that Northern Ireland is English, the currency is pounds, not the euro used in Southern Ireland.
• If you tour the estates where the murals exist, you will be safe, but now it’s also heart-wrenching.
• Respect the locals and don’t discuss religion or politics. It isn’t polite.
• You will see offensive things. For example, we saw lots of derogatory graffiti, tons of disgusting verbiage on gas station bathroom walls, and loads of provocative politics in the newspapers. Stark reminds us that while the violence has died, the issues remain painful.
• The Titanic launched its one and the only voyage from Belfast’s port! We did not have enough time to check out the museum, but we will next time we visit.

Closing Thoughts

We only spent a day in Belfast and immediately fell in love with the city. It’s a place that everyone should experience firsthand. Everyone should see the walls that still stand and divide this historical city.  Everyone should understand what happened in Belfast, Ireland, what shapes the culture today, and why there was so much conflict. Taking a tour through Belfast is as good of classical education as you can get!  Finally, the next time you listen to U2, you will appreciate the lyrics’ real meaning.

Looking for more historical posts? Start here:

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• The Howey Mansion – Florida

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